llustrator Megan St Clair visited the fashion shows and presentations during London Fashion Week Men’s, and did what she does best—dissecting her favourite looks through colours, silhouettes and interesting details.
Read her brief reviews of the shows and scroll through the illustrations in the gallery above to get a first-hand recap of some of London’s promising menswear brands.
The duo’s reflection on the off-broadway theatre scene in New York, Stefan Cooke took their signature techniques of cut away knits and trompe l’oeil to explore the idea of impact. From the up-cycled vintage purses, to their taking of period costume techniques printed on jersey—the collection was a take on being half in and half out, a costume for the everyday. With a white curtain set, this show led the audience to decipher the story, whilst the story itself waited in the wings.
This was not the standard debut collection. Just one year on from graduating the MA Menswear at Westminster, Priya of Ahluwalia Studio has taken to collaborations with Adidas and brought sustainable techniques to the forefront. With a nostalgic theme, Priya looked towards her family for inspiration, featuring faces from her family archives, including her father. An exciting display of how the life of clothing can continue through experimentation and tradition.
Taking the idea of what masculinity means, Bianca brought forward the work she featured within a film of interviews released early this year. Bringing the essence of male identity and masculinity which surround her, Bianca brought forward a modern take on the formal uniform that’s inclusive of her signature textile manipulation.
Marking 25 years in the industry, Chalayan led his spring/summer 2020 trends through the street facing his flagship London store—bringing a grey London street to a tonal and tailored vision of what his statement designs have evolved to become.
With an equestrian inspiration, Kiko brought through intricate pattern-cutting to create a glossed array of jockey styles in the mix, with printed jerseys in sharp contrast to the Victorian curls on models in quilted tailoring.
Bringing together their classic cuts and incredible quality, E. Tautz came in bright for spring/summer 2020 with a range of orange and red hues described as ‘juicy and fruity’ to layer their tailored gents for a relaxed summer fit.
A fresh introduction to modern day tailoring, Eastwood Danso brought experimentation and craft to the forefront within his spring/summer 2020 collection. A clear favourite for me was the lightweight leather jacket with a shell-encrusted collar; perfection.
Charles Jeffery Loverboy
With playful tearaways, this collection sparked thoughts of what more is beneath the layers of Loverboy—a new chapter read by Charles himself—which was followed by a fuelled line up of signature tartan, slick tailoring and experimental cuts.
Hodges took his bold brand identity to the next level with futurism and cyberpunk references. With strong slogans, powered prints and effortless styling, Liam brought a playful printed interlude to grey London. Combining his collaboration knits worn half-on half-off with slouched tees and mismatched stripe shirts. Not known for his knitwear, it showed strength throughout.