llustrator Megan St Clair sat through the spring/summer 2020 menswear collections during Paris Fashion Week Men’s, and did what she does best—dissecting her favourite looks through colours, silhouettes and interesting details.
Read her brief reviews of the shows and scroll through the illustrations in the gallery above to get a first-hand recap of some of Paris Fashion Week Men’s for the spring/summer 2020 season‘s promising showings.
Dries Van Noten
Known for his impeccable use of colour, Dries Van Noten certainly did not disappoint for spring/summer 2020. A personal favourite was the vinyl sunflower coat paired with camo accessories—its strength in statement alongside ‘everyday’ gave an edgy pairing rarely seen outside accidental street styling. Models carried layered lightweight outwear throughout the collection with cues to take on hot days for how to wear and carry your layers innovatively.
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake
Bringing movement into the equation—this show was exactly that, a show. With dancers, musicians and models all combined in a playful and fun brand identity encompassing experience led via storytelling. Whether it was the plissé pants that moved as if by magic to enable flips and kicks, or the multi-directional permanent pleat coat which in every movement, the sections swayed against each other.
Set within a literal building site (I mean drills and builders were present and active), Études showed that the process is part of the creation—in a collaboration with artist Chloe Wise it gave an update to its classic primary colour schemes of previous collections. As the technical outwear and accessories helped build the looks, it was the accessories and Études’ use of selective prints throughout which brought the brand to what I’d say was new heights.
From distressed tees and logo-clad muscle knits, to the dreamiest stud-detailing update of classic denim cuts, Sankuanz gave us the uplift to start the last leg of fashion month well. The brand continued the Americana trend—solidifying that some subtle western vibes will be joining your wardrobe next summer, whether you’re into the cowboy look via hats, boots or bringing it to the next level with a pair of chaps.
As per Glen Martens, Y/Project brought a consistent stream of tailoring, knits and sweats in his classic distorted pattern cuts. With lots of attitude, his pairing of beautifully ruched knits instantly drew me in, making me look further and longer into their detail, slouched upon the perfectly cast models who gave the carefree strength Y/Project has become so known for.
Taking his suiting to a fresh yet mature level, Sean has evolved a lot while keeping the brand identity (the brand debuted in London just a few years ago) fully present. With his staple knit vests and the addition of utilitarian pockets to his longline shirts, his muted colour story was brightened softly with innovative textiles in royal blues and pillar box reds which lifted the monochromatic mood well.
Shown in the halls of Musee du Louvre, the subtle tones of Sulvam gave a calming addition to a busy day of shows—served with fantastic cuts in a metallic sheen. It was a classic French twist with casual, sleek and simple looks intertwined with conceptual textile choices and thematic accessories.
Dior Men had all the elements we could dream of for summer, no matter the forecast. From the sash suiting to the Rimowa collaboration, it screamed accessible elegance, which I’m sure will continue to entertain the hype teens who’ve come to love Jones’ Dior Men. Alongside his now staple Saddle bags with techwear detailing, Jones took their shape in his cuts detailing shirts via paneling. Set on an ombre sand runway (which lent itself via ombre elements throughout the collection too), spring/summer 2020 was a collaboration with artist Daniel Arsham, who created the huge D-I-O-R sculptures you saw on the runway and many sculptural talking points throughout the guests’ entry point. It was Dior time as you entered through Arsham’s hanging clock, but it certainly looked like it’d be Dior Men’s time for much longer given the growing strength of Jones’ output each season.
A reflection on the past of Hollywood, it was a ’70s dream at CELINE as Hedi Slimane lifted the curtain on the glamour, which seemingly had dulled, but not for long. Kicking off with suited sparkle, Slimane carried this throughout with sleek tailoring as always, bringing the flare back with a vengeance.
Maison Mihara Yasuhiro
Amongst his deconstruction and reconstruction of menswear layering, he gave shirting new lives, and gave the term cut away a new meaning. A mishmash of heavy outwear, large scale print clashing and sportswear, made this a dream to draw—though I do question how we’d survive in this many layers during the summer months? Maybe it’s designed for Londoners like me, always prepared for bad weather…
Marking the end of design duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s tenure at the brand, they gave the ever incredible Solange Knowles the task of writing the score and building the atmosphere via performance and sound for their final show; it was the perfect pairing. Not only was the collection an outstanding showcase of how to coordinate colour well, it gave strength to both the casual, the old school and the possibilities of the smart. While their suiting was cut to elongate the male form, their subtle use of print enabled a strength in colour blocking. Here’s to hoping the next chapter continues the strength as a brand that they’ve built just so well.
A subtle yet refined debut show in Paris, on the grounds of a luxe Parisian square. While relaxing in their summer attire ready for a day trip at any moment, models looked comfortable, which hasn’t been regular given Paris’ current heat wave. From the lightweight vegan leather coats, to the beautiful millinery from Budapest-based and London-trained Vecsei Millinery—a fusion of straw hat statements became thin rim hats for men and visors for women—it was a perfect example of summer style done well. With high level styling at the hands of mega-influencer Alex Carl, you could see the vision come together perfectly through a minimalist set, stunning floristry and the easy style we can all achieve for summer—we just have to do it the Nanushka way.