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PFWSS20 – Day 1 – Mame Kurogouchi & Rokh

Starting the Paris season with the embrace of Mame Kurogouchi – she notes in the press release of humans being ‘embraced in the world, when we are born.’ With the thought of newborn, first thoughts and memories she looked to her first memories being green – a colour story which threaded through the entire collection (literally). From vinyl accessories and beautifully encrusted collars to the simple basics layered under sheer wrapped pleats and folds, it was an emerald road. A true celebration of historical reference to Japanese wrapping, which was known to use clothing as protection of the body. A collection which played against the codes of contemporary beauty, whilst re-writing her own code for the strong yet subtle beauty SS20 seems to hold.

Then venturing to the mirrored, smoked space in which Rokh was to present their second collection since their LVMH award – with a powerful stance models bared decoltarge throughout the first 10 or so looks. Which was of course followed by Rokh’s classic reinterpeted trench coats slinking through in leather colour block to pleated blocks.